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Sunday, October 9, 2011

43 Things We Have Observed about Cuenca’s People

We’ve lived in Cuenca for 3 months now and yes, we still like Cuenca Ecuador, and even more so than when we first moved here. We live in an Ecuadorian neighborhood, we ride the bus almost every day, we buy produce from the Mercado a few times a week.

(Update 2013) We have learned to only go shopping at the Mercado early in the day (between 8am and 10am) to avoid drunks and petty thievery. It has so far worked out well.


And we eat in the typical Ecuadorian style restaurants. We have made friends with some wonderful Ecuadorians and Peruvians that live here. We’re happy we moved here and have no regrets whatsoever.

UPDATE: August 2012 - One Year in Cuenca. About Feria Libre. Yes, we have experienced a disconcerting time when shopping there in the middle of the afternoon on a Saturday. A drunk (young guy) kept following us for about 15 minutes. I saw that he had 2 friends with him on the sidelines...we tried to dodge him but he knows Feria Libre better than we do. Finally, Frank turned around and told the man to quit following us and he put up his arms as if to fight with Frank....we just walked away and left the Mercado as quickly as possible that day. We still shop at Feria Libre once a week. Anyway. our recommendations for Feria Libre are posted in an article on this blog, but the two most important things we advise is: go in the mornings and during week days. 
***
Update May 2013: We keep our observations of Cuenca and it's people updated as you will see with annotations of new changes or additions. 

We go out and do things almost every day and during our outings we observe and notice things about Cuenca and its great people. We thought we’d post our observations on the blog for you to get a better idea of what it’s like here.

Cuenca Ecuador People

•The Indigenous women carry their babies in a wool blanket made into a hammock on their back (it is the cutest thing you’ve ever seen) Some of them carry them on the front too.

•Ecuadorian women do not smoke. (seriously, I have not seen a woman in Cuenca smoke yet).
UPDATE August 2012: Lived here a year now and I've seen maybe three women smoking.

•Ecuadorian men rarely smoke - Update August 2012...some men do smoke.

•No baggy jeans on the men or women (they like their jeans to fit kind of tight, especially the women)

 UPDATE: January 2014- Yes, the women wear tight jeans in Ecuador but this does not mean she is loose or looking for attention. It is the cultural dress for women to wear tight jeans and sometimes when going out to pair that with a pair of high heels. It is the style for Ecuador and is engraved within the culture...it is nothing more, so please do yourself a favor and do not read into it.

The other piece of clothing you will find the women wear often here is the leotards or tights.  Normally we're used to seeing these worn by ballet dancers under their tutu's or you might find women wearing those to gymnastic class. Here they wear them out on the street as every day clothing. We had one gringo ask us if they forgot to put a dress on over it, and at first it seems like they are not fully dressed, but here again it does not mean anything other than, they are very cheap ($6 to $9). It is what's available to them at this time in Ecuador and is only what some Ecuadorians can afford to buy. Clothing is expensive here.

•Women here are very feminine –they like to dress up and be girly but rarely will you see them wearing a dress

•99% of the women have long hair, which is usually tied back in a pony tail

•99% of the men have short hair, which many like to style with gel

•Rarely do men or women wear shorts

•Women rarely wear clothes that show their cleavage (husbands and boyfriends would not go for that here. It is a much more conservative culture)

•All bus drivers are male
***June 2012 update***  There is a woman bus driver in Cuenca! And she drove the bus pretty good; she was not as jerky with the stick shift as some of the men bus drivers are. LOL.

•All Taxi drivers are male
***Update*** When we were in Salinas we got in a taxi with a female driver. But still have not seen a female taxi driver in Cuenca.

•There are more young married and pregnant women here than anywhere else we have ever been. (they marry young here and start families, which is important to them)

•The People, men and women alike are very laid back and not in a rush (it’s the manana attitude). If this type lifestyle frustrates you then it is advisable to not move to any Latin American culture

•Coastal people and the Andes people do not get along we are told. (We experienced this firsthand one day where the two were bickering and arguing)

•If you ask for directions and even if they don’t know where it is they will give you directions. (It’s best to get a 2nd and even 3rd opinion on a address)

•Ecuadorians don’t want to tell you “no” they can’t do something for you, or “no’ they don’t know where something is

•They always say the formal greeting of “Buenas Dias”, “Buenos Tardes” or Buenos Noches depending on the time of day. They rarely greet you with hola.

Update 2013 - We have noticed if you walk into an establishment and forget to say Buenas Dias or whatever time of day it is they will think you are rude and you may not get a very good welcome in return. Just saying. 

•Family’s are very close here and walk hand in hand or arm in arm down the street together

•It seems that about 80% of the population has a family run mom and pop type business; they work out of the first floor, and the living quarters are on the 2nd and 3rd floors, some sell the produce they farm, while the rest work in banking, service, and government jobs.

•Women when they dress up prefer to wear slacks or jeans with high heels or boots rather than a dress

•8 out of 10 women do not use purses (I’ve seen back packs and satchels mostly, if they carry any kind of a bag

•Ecuadorians love shoes

•Ecuadorians are friendly and helpful

•Public intoxication is not illegal here so there are drunk people lying in the streets on the sidewalks, and in the parks (don’t look a drunk in the eye or he will beg you for money and follow you all over the place)
(Update May 2013) Since the advent of over 100 new police units in force the public drunkenness has settled down somewhat.

•Some men pee in public (There are several public restrooms throughout Cuenca because we use them ourselves) UPDATE August 2012: We've seen several indigenous women peeing right out in public. Their skirt Shields them when they squat.

•Working Ecuadorian people are mostly honest, which is most Ecuadorians. (We’ve witnessed this twice ourselves) Once Frank accidentally gave an indigenous produce seller too much money and she gave us back, and once I dropped a dollar piece on the bus (I didn’t realize it fell out of my pocket when I grabbed the a piece of paper and it rolled three seats back and they gave it back to me.
Update 2013: always be careful whom you can trust; not all Ecuadorians keep their word or are trustworthy or ethical.

•We have never yet experienced any petty theft of our personal items (we’re very careful and diligent though and we always use the buddy system. You’re less apt to be mugged or taken advantage of when there are two of you. We recommend women to not walk anywhere alone.

UPDATE 2012:  In July 2012 a Cuenca expat woman was stabbed on a popular walking trail at 10:am while she was walking or jogging along the path. She went to the hospital and had to have more than 10 stitches.

Update March 2013: Frank got pick-pocketed on the bus from a man who dressed and looked just like everyone else--he was obviously a professional. See our article about how Frank finally got pick-pocketed.

•Violent crime is rare in Cuenca

•They say petty crime is on the rise and is a problem (see our post about
how not to be a target of crime in Cuenca)

UPDATE Jan 2014: Now the talk of the town is that petty crime is down in Cuenca...however, we really have no way to confirm this. 

•Banks and big service businesses like ETAPA Internet all have manned guards with sawed off shot guns standing watch. Take off your hat and lift up your sunglasses or you will not be allowed in the bank.

•When you go grocery shopping you must take off your back pack and satchels and give them to a person who holds them for you. (they give you a number and when you are done shopping, give them your number and you can have your bag back) Some establishments allow you to put your own pack in a locker and you have the key.

•Cuenca is quite artsy (there are lots of artisans here such as painters, potters, craftsmen, craftswomen, musical, dance, blanket making, sewing, basketry, etc.

* A traditional Ecuadorian food is called Cuye or better known as Guinea pig

*Eggs are not refrigerated and do not need to be refrigerated.

*Some of the milk does not spoil, even when it is not refrigerated for several days!

*They love chicken here and the chicken is the best tasting chicken we have ever had, no kidding! The eggs also are very good

*Burger King and KFC is the two fast foods here.
Update November 2013- There are now two new McDonald's, one is located in the El Vegel area across from the Madre Parque and the other one is in the Mall Del Rio. 

*Ecuadorians will respect you more if you bargain with them

*Wearing holey jeans is not trendy here in Cuenca; it is rarely seen
Update: March 2013...we've been here almost 2 years now and there are more holey jeans now, but it still a minority of people. There are also more and more baggy pants on the younger males.

Update: JAN 2014: holey and baggy jeans are beginning to be more trendy here. We're seeing this awful clothing selling in retail shops. To us, it looks like they just went dumpster diving for clothing.

*Ecuadorians do not wear bright, flashy, stripes, flowery, or colorful clothing. They stick to the darker solid, neutral colors of browns, greys, blacks, and blues, with the exception of the Indigenous population who, if they are in traditional costume do wear colorful skirts and blouses.
 Update Jan 2014: The clothing styles are changing...

*They love sports, especially soccer (futboll)

*Lots of young people go to the many Internet cafe's and use the computer (it costs 60 cents and hour)They love Facebook and YouTube.

•Ecuadorians are not very open-minded to home schooling as other Latin American countries are, such as Chile. It is not illegal to home school in Ecuador but there are more hoops to go through with the Ministry of Education...tests...paperwork....and more paperwork from your home country.

Many Ecuadorians feel that you need to have a university degree to live comfortably and be financially stable in life. Some feel that if you are not college educated you are not very intelligent or perhaps will have a hard time "getting a good job".

That's what it is all about here, "getting a job", which is what a university degree teaches.  Forget about being a self-made learner, gaining new ideas, and being industrious in whatever a person decides to pursue. In Ecuador you need to go to the University so you  can "get a job" and be somebody!  Chile is exactly the opposite when it comes to home education. Hopefully, Ecuador will break out of the 1950's too,.

At the time of this writing Ecuadorians have a free or almost free education system for its citizens, which is probably why they have not opened their mind to alternative methods of schooling, learning, and growth.

16 comments:

  1. Thank you for your blog. I am really enjoying it.

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  2. It is a pleasure, as I sit here working in my cubicle in the U. S., to learn about another culture through your eyes. Your post has made me wonder about the sounds and smells of the city. Are there boom boxes or loud music, either from passing cars or shops? Is it stinky from the public urination? Is there a floral scent in the air? I'm also curious about the public restrooms: are they clean, and are there toilets or just a drain in the floor, as I found in Paris? Is it like Mexico, where you have to throw the tp in the trash because the septic system is bad? And one more, any thoughts about doing laundry there? My questions would be inappropriate at a dinner party, and I'm a little reluctanct to ask, but this is what I am curious about. You have been so forthcoming with practical information, I hope you don't mind my asking plumbing and sanitation questions. Thank you. (and thank you for your observations about smoking in public)

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  3. Thank you, Nancy! We really enjoy being a part of Cuenca and letting others who are thinking of moving here know what the REAL Cuenca is like.

    I really like all of your questions and I will answer each and every one of them in an upcoming blog post. I will say this about one of your questions. Yes, It is like Mexico where you have to throw your TP in the trash. But newer construction outside of the colonial sections, you don't have to do that.

    All five of us put the TP down our toilets (3 toilets) and never yet have had any overflow problems. I think I read somewhere that this only needs to be done in the older buildings, and especially downtown.

    Be looking for an upcoming post about the restrooms here! LOL

    Angie :-)

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  4. I am enjoying your blog very much. I used to visit Ecuador on business in the 60s and 70s and have been back on holidays several time, the last was in 2007. I am a 70 year old widower planning on moving to Cuenca in 2012. Although I will probably have a look at Cotacachi and Loja which are lower and little warmer, but I like cities. I will rent for some period until I decide where to plant myself. I enjoy people and will be coming sans wife or significant other, just my two 4 legged children. I wonder how easy it is to meet Ecuadorian women? I am reasonably healthy for an old fart and don't have to travel with a drugstore, I don't take anything except a little wine or beer. I am taking Spanish lessons so I should be able to do more than order off a menu.
    Hasta Luego

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  5. Hi Michael.
    Glad you're enjoying the blog. As for meeting women, can't help you there, been married for thirty years to the wonderful wife of my youth. Having said that, Ecuador, and Cuenca in particular is very family oriented. I'm sure if you intend to love and respect a woman God will provide....
    Frank

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  6. Angie & Frank:

    I also am enjoying your blog & videos. I find myself checking my email to discover what new sights, smells and sounds you are discovering about Cuenca. Apart from the Roman Catholic church, what other church groups have you found in Cuenca?

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  7. Glad you're enjoying the blog.
    A quick scan of the Cuenca yellow pages only yielded two church organizations listed, but as you can see from the videos, and if I'm reading you correctly the Catholic presence is prevalent everywhere. Further, the organization we have interacted with, upon being asked if they are Catholic, simply answered no. We didn't ask their denomination, and they didn't volunteer. Which is just as well with us, because we don't happen to favor any particular denomination. Sorry to be so vague, but that's the only information we have. We were asked one evening while enjoying festivities in the square where we were from and what our religious belief was, in English!!! We told her we are Christian, and she welcomed us to the city. Although she didn't mention who she was, I got the sense she was some kind of church official, probably Catholic, since the festivities were being put on by the Catholic church. So to summarize, we get the sense that any of the particular Christian sectarian beliefs would be welcome.

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  8. Are there boom boxes or loud music, either from passing cars or shops?
    A.) No. But there are car alarms and fireworks (a lot!)

    Is it stinky from the public urination?

    A.) Well, yes when someone has recently urinated but this is pretty infrequent. It's more surprising than it is a problem.

    Is there a floral scent in the air?

    A.) No. Surprisingly, there's also not a pine smell in the air. I guess that's because the trees in the mountains aren't pines (duh) but we were expecting that smell.

    I'm also curious about the public restrooms: are they clean, and are there toilets or just a drain in the floor, as I found in Paris?

    A.) It depends. For the most part the bathrooms are *cleaner* than in the U.S.! But if you're in a poor neighborhood you might find a somewhat dirty bathroom with a hole in the floor.

    Is it like Mexico, where you have to throw the tp in the trash because the septic system is bad?

    A.) As someone else said, we just put the tp in the toilet anyway, and never had an issue, and our place *was* in an old part of town (across the river from the historic district). What's weird is that people did put their tp in wastebaskets, but it never smelled.

    And one more, any thoughts about doing laundry there?

    A.) Well they have Washers and Dryers just like they do here. Although, dryers are for the wealthy. When we did a short term rental it had a clothes washer but not a dryer. We got used to hanging up clothes to dry. The good part is that it's really, really cheap to have your laundry washed, dried and folded for you. I think it was $.50/lb in Cuenca, less in smaller towns.

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  9. I have been to Cuenca 14 plus years ago and I have good memories of it. I was working with a Christian ministry and visited many Evangelical churches and English schools. I loved Cuenca. I was amazed at the number of foreigners in the city. I would love to bring my family to Cuenca one day.

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  10. Great place to bring your family Hope you can get your family down here. Let us know when you're coming...Thanks for commenting...

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  11. It is very hard to meet a girl, when going out on weekend to popular Calle Larga.
    Singe girls do not go out here.You will see only couples.

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  12. I´ll add one more: people LOVE to honk their horns, sometimes even before the light turns green. After living and working in Toronto, Canada for 10 years, where NOBODY honks, I still find this habit incredibly annoying - I mean, it´s not like I can fly over the car in front of me! However, despite the honking, I've yet to see true road rage on the streets of Cuenca, unlike on some highways in Canada.

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    Replies
    1. LOL...I know it! Thank you for your insight and contribution.

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  13. have just discovered your blog and love it,REALITY.I'm a single older woman who really wants to move to Cuenca(for a bit to check it out first) but am nervous about bringing over my 2 dogs for a period of 3 mos.-is it hard to find short term rentals with 2 dogs?and is bringing the pets complicated?

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  14. Hi! Love your blog! My husband and I are considering moving to Ecuador very soon with our 2 young children ages 6 and 8. We home school here in the US, but noticed your tip on homeschooling not being acceptable there. What are the schools like in Cuenca? Are there private schools that are affordable? Would Cuenca be a nice place for our young family? Thank you so much! B.M

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    Replies
    1. You can home school your children in Ecuador. Not very many Ecuadorians educate their children here, however.

      Only you can decide if Cuenca is a good fit for your family. You should come and visit first to see if you like it.

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